Every one of the five Blue Zones eats beans, and not as a side. Ikaria has its lentils, Sardinia its fava and chickpeas, Okinawa its soy, Nicoya its black beans, Loma Linda everything in the aisle. If you strip the five diets down to what they actually share, this is most of what is left.
Which makes it odd that almost nobody writes down how to cook them. A tin is fine. A pot of beans you cooked yourself, with a bay leaf and a good glug of olive oil, tastes like a different food and costs about a fifth as much. This is the method, and the answers to the two arguments people have about it.
The Ingredients
- 500g dried beans — black, pinto, cannellini, chickpeas, or a mix of one kind at a time
- 2.5 L water for soaking, plus fresh water for cooking
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 onion, halved · 4 garlic cloves, smashed
- 1 strip kombu, optional — see the note on digestibility
- 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 tsp fine sea salt, added early (see step 3)
- A heavy pot with a lid — enamelled cast iron if you have one
How to Make It
Tip the beans onto a tray and pick out the split ones and the occasional small stone. Cover with cold water by 8cm and leave 8–12 hours. Soaking shortens cooking, evens the texture, and leaches some of the oligosaccharides that cause the obvious problem.
Discard the soaking water and cover with fresh cold water by 5cm. Add the bay, onion, garlic and kombu. Bring slowly to a bare simmer — never a rolling boil, which breaks the skins and gives you soup you did not ask for.
You will have read that salt toughens beans. It does not. Salt the water at the start, about 2 teaspoons for this quantity: it seasons the bean through rather than sitting on the outside, and it strengthens the skin so fewer burst. What does keep beans hard is acid — hold the tomatoes, vinegar and lemon until the beans are fully tender.
60–90 minutes for most beans, up to 2 hours for chickpeas or old stock. Test five, not one — beans cook unevenly. You want a bean that collapses to a cream on the tongue with no chalk in the centre. Under-cooked beans are the single most common reason people think they dislike them.
Let them cool in their cooking liquid, which is now a light, savoury broth worth keeping. Portion into containers with enough liquid to cover. Four days refrigerated, three months frozen. A cup a day, from the freezer, is a decision you make once a month.