Ikaria is an island, and islands eat fish — but not the way the wellness internet imagines. Ikarians ate it a few times a week, in modest portions, alongside far larger quantities of greens, beans and bread. Fish was a component of the diet, not its centrepiece.
The cooking is correspondingly plain. A whole fish, a great deal of olive oil, lemon, wild oregano off the hillside, and a hot oven. The technique that matters is restraint: nothing here is doing anything clever, and the moment you add a fifth ingredient you have made a different dish.
The Ingredients
- 1 whole sea bream, sea bass or snapper (1–1.2kg), scaled and gutted — or 4 fillets
- 120ml extra-virgin olive oil, and do not reduce it
- 2 lemons — one sliced, one juiced
- 2 tbsp dried wild oregano (rigani), or 4 tbsp fresh
- 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
- 500g waxy potatoes, sliced 5mm thick
- 1 red onion, sliced into rings
- 1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped
- Coarse sea salt and black pepper
How to Make It
Toss the potato slices and onion rings with a third of the olive oil, half the oregano, salt and pepper. Spread in a roasting tin and give them 20 minutes alone at 200°C (400°F). Fish and potatoes do not cook in the same time, and this is the only part people get wrong.
Score the fish twice on each side, down to the bone. Salt it inside and out, including the cavity. Stuff the cavity with half the lemon slices, the garlic and the parsley stalks.
Lay the fish on the par-cooked potatoes. Tuck the remaining lemon slices around and over it, scatter the rest of the oregano, and pour over the remaining olive oil and all the lemon juice. It should look like too much oil. It is not too much oil.
Return to the oven for 22–28 minutes depending on size. It is done when the flesh at the thickest part of the back lifts cleanly from the bone — check early rather than late. Fillets need only 12–15 minutes.
Rest 5 minutes, then spoon the lemon-and-oil from the base of the tin back over the fish repeatedly. That emulsion is the sauce; there is no other one. Finish with the chopped parsley.