In Nicoya the tortilla is not a wrapper. It is the floor of the meal — eaten at every one of them, torn and used as a utensil, made from corn that was cooked in lime the night before. The word for that corn is nixtamal, from the Nahuatl, and the process is roughly three thousand years old.
You can make tortillas from a bag of masa harina in fifteen minutes, and they will be fine. This is the other version: whole dried corn, a spoon of cal, and an overnight soak. It takes a night of doing nothing and it produces a tortilla that tastes like corn rather than like flour.
The Ingredients
- 450g dried field corn (maiz blanco or yellow dent — not sweetcorn, not popcorn)
- 1½ L water, plus more for rinsing
- 1 tbsp cal / pickling lime (food-grade calcium hydroxide) — about 1% of the corn's weight
- 1 tsp fine sea salt, added at the grinding stage
- Warm water, as needed, to bring the masa together
How to Make It
Rinse the dried corn. In a non-reactive pot, dissolve the cal fully in the water, add the corn, and bring to a gentle simmer. Hold it there 35–45 minutes: you want the kernels slightly softened, not cooked through. The water will turn yellow and smell faintly of cooked corn.
Take it off the heat, cover, and leave at room temperature for 8–12 hours. This is where the work happens — the pericarp loosens, the niacin is freed, calcium moves in. Do not skip it and do not rush it.
Drain and rinse the corn hard under cold water, rubbing handfuls between your palms. The papery skins will slip off and float away. Rinse three or four times until the water is clear and the corn no longer tastes of soap. This is now nixtamal.
Grind the wet corn to a smooth dough with the salt — a molino, a food processor with patience, or a heavy-duty blender in small batches. Add warm water a tablespoon at a time. You want the texture of soft play-dough: it should hold a fingerprint without cracking at the edges.
Divide into 16 balls. Press each between two sheets of plastic to about 2mm. Cook on a dry, properly hot comal or skillet: 30 seconds, flip, 45 seconds, flip again — the third turn is when it should puff. Stack them in a cloth as they come off; they steam each other soft.