Kombu does not grow in Okinawan waters. It grows in Hokkaido, at the other end of Japan — and yet for most of the last two centuries Okinawa consumed more of it per head than any other prefecture, brought south along the trade routes and folded into the everyday cooking until it became a defining ingredient.
Kombu irichi is the plainest expression of that: seaweed cut into ribbons, braised with tofu and whatever root vegetable is around, seasoned with almost nothing. It is cheap, it keeps, and it is the dish that fills the seaweed-shaped hole in most people's idea of the Okinawan diet.
The Ingredients
- 40g dried kombu (about 4 large sheets)
- 400g firm tofu, pressed 20 minutes and torn into rough pieces
- 2 carrots, cut into matchsticks
- 1 onion, sliced thin
- 500ml the kombu soaking water, reserved
- 2 tbsp soy sauce or tamari · 1 tbsp mirin
- 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil · 1 tbsp neutral oil
- 1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds · 2 spring onions, sliced
- A thumb of ginger, julienned
How to Make It
Cover the kombu with 600ml of cold water and leave 30 minutes until pliable. Keep that water — it is now dashi, and it is the entire seasoning base of the dish. Lift the kombu out, roll the sheets and slice into 5mm ribbons.
Press the tofu between two plates with something heavy on top for 20 minutes, then tear rather than cube it. Torn faces hold sauce; cut faces slide off it.
Heat the neutral oil in a wide pan and colour the tofu on two sides without crowding, 6–8 minutes. Take it out and set aside. Doing this first is what stops the tofu disintegrating in the braise.
Soften the onion, carrot and ginger 4 minutes in the sesame oil. Add the kombu ribbons, the reserved soaking water, soy and mirin. Simmer uncovered 15 minutes — the kombu should go from leathery to yielding and the liquid reduce by half.
Fold the tofu back in and simmer 5 minutes more to take on the sauce. Off the heat, scatter sesame seeds and spring onion. It is better after twenty minutes standing, and better still the next day.